During May, before the goats are taken to pasture, and in October, after they return, are the only times when it is possible to watch the production of Cretan Graviera cheese. I was lucky enough to join a small group on an excursion into the countryside to view this fascinating process.

No high-tech machinery here; it’s all done by hand in a cool, underground location and, as you can see from the photographs I took, the results look (and taste) delicious.

What does cheese go best with? Bread, obviously – and so our next stop was a local traditional restaurant with its wood oven where we participated in the bread making. Our tastebuds aroused we finished our tour with a tasty meal including all home grown vegetables.

I thoroughly recommend giving the beaches a miss for a day in order to learn about and enjoy some of the traditional crafts which abound on Crete.

Linda Diamandi
GIC The Villa Collection Rep

Orange and Lemon Orchards

The walk to the waterfalls (kataraktes in Greek) is a wonderful way to spend a morning or afternoon. The winding road takes you through the small village of Rachi, where you could stop for refreshments at The Bridge taverna, before passing through olive groves, and lemon and orange orchards towards the Dimosari gorge.  The road passes alongside the river and you can look down into the rocky pools and see the twisted roots of the olive trees dipping into the water.

At the end of the tarmac path there is a rustic pathway that leads up to the waterfalls themselves. The area attracts many types of butterflies, birds, hawks, frogs and lizards. The mossy, rocky gorge is also home to many types of wild flowers and ferns, and is green and dramatic even at the height of the summer.

At the end of the footpath the water cascades down the rockface to a pretty pool where the locals come to swim and picnic in the summer.

The walk is about 6km long, and you can get refreshments in Rachi or at the The Plane Tree café at the beginning of the footpath.

Find out more about holidays in Lefkas.

Janine Cording,
GIC The Villa Collection

Koula

Koula is an excellent cook, currently writing her second cookery book, and it was a pleasure to attend one of her classes in the warmth of the Cretan sun!

Fresh, local ingredients

Whilst sipping rakki – usually stronger in Crete than anywhere else in Greece, sometimes called tsikoudhia and varying from area to area – we learned about the herbs found on the island. Then to work – starting with artichoke soup with egg and lemon; wonderful complementary flavours. This was followed by lamb with stamnagathi (a green vegetable also known as spiny chicory) and beetroot salad with walnuts. Finally, we were introduced to Kalitsunia which are small pies made with a soft Cretan cheese called Myzithra and mint – yummy!

Team effort!

Our reward for all that effort was to sit down and enjoy the fruits of our labour, accompanied by local wine and enthusiastic culinary conversation.

Tasting time

I was delighted to be chosen to participate in this class to try it out as we are hoping to offer it as one of a selection of sustainable tourism excursions which will also include less “hands on” but just as enjoyable tours such as cheese tasting.

Highly recommended experience!

Linda Diamandi
GIC The Villa Collection Representative

View of Lakka, January 2012

It’s been some two and half years now since we relocated from the UK to our dream island of Paxos and the two burning questions from friends and family are repeatedly asked – ‘What’s it like in the winter?’ and ‘How is the economic situation in Greece affecting Paxos’.

Well as it happens, the pre Christmas weather was extremely good with lovely warm sunny days ideal for dog walking through the olive groves and even a charity swim in Loggos harbour on Boxing Day. Yes it has rained [and rained], with dramatic electrical storms and fallen trees knocking out the electricity supply; but the problem was fixed, [surprisingly quickly once we tracked down the workmen in the cafeneion!]. As a result of the rain the land is lush and green with an array of spring time flowers beginning to carpet the ground.

Amalia, a Paxos Donkey in our garden

It’s a busy old time in the winter, peaceful but not always as quiet as you might think; not because of discontented locals protesting against the austerity measures, [the only military uniforms seen here are the camouflage jackets worn by the locals out shooting birds for lunch], but it’s a really busy time for socialising.

Many locals celebrate their ‘Name Day’ in the winter, so for example in February we were expected to visit the homes of any of our friends called Babis or Haroula as it was the Name Day of ‘Haralambos’ [from which their names are derived]; we attended Haralambos church in the morning, and then armed with gifts and sweet things duly made our house calls. The generosity and warmth of the Paxiots never ceases to amaze us and so we accepted graciously the drinks , mezzes and hospitality offered at each home as they held ‘open house’ for the afternoon and evening. It’s amazing how many friends one can squeeze into a small dining room or lounge and the atmosphere was definitely celebratory with much fun and cheeky laughter, not least from the Papa!

Anti-Paxos, November 2011

The laughter continued through the preparations for ‘Kathara Theftera’ [Clean Monday] which begins the season of Great Lent. On 27 February the community organised its Clean Monday celebrations in Lakka; the party began late in the afternoon and no-one can quite remember what time the following day it ended! It’s always a fancy dress bonanza and this year was no exception with men dressed as women, wigs and masks galore and a wonderful carnival atmosphere; the locals really do let their hair down before fasting for lent.

West Coast Walk, Lakka

Talk now is of ‘Pasca’ and ‘Megalos Evthnomada’ [Big Week’] with the locals and fellow expats all looking forward to the Easter celebrations, it’s such a big time here in Greece and the Paxiots love it. Lambs or goats are roasted on the spit and the outside kitchen comes into its own, friends and family share food, homemade wine and good company; there will be special church services and firework displays, and then the icons [which are particularly active at this time of year] are celebrated and paraded across the island, being carried from Ipapandi through the olive groves and villages to the next church. Lanes and roads are decorated with flowers to honour the saint and gunshots fired in celebration and reverence if the parade passes your home.

Of course the economy is of great concern and belts are being tightened; of course the locals are worried that ‘the visitors’ [holiday makers] might not come this summer, but that’s the same every year. Some things are a little different though as generally preparations for the season are very last minute, [usually best for the first visitors of the season to check for wet paint in their accommodation!] but this winter there seems to have been constant activity all over the island. Surprisingly instead of businesses closing down [as in some parts of Greece], here in Paxos new premises are being built or renovated – there’s a new supermarket due to open on the port road out of Gaios and a second pharmacy for the island based in Lakka!

Magazia Olive Grove

Most Paxiots own land and houses passed down through the generations and many this winter have worked hard on ‘cleaning’ their land and harvesting their olives, [the expats too]. It’s back breaking work, strimming the undergrowth, laying the black nets and then sorting and picking the ripe olives which fall. Once bagged up the bags are taken to one of the local olive presses where your oil is pressed, so satisfying to use your own oil.
The noise of chain saws has been relentless as overgrown olive trees are being cut back; the wood being stored for use next year in our ‘sobers’ [wood burning stoves] found in most Paxiot homes. Four mules have been brought to Paxos for the winter from Metsovo, [a mountain a ski resort on the mainland] and they pass by our house daily to work on the land transporting wood through the groves, so it’s certainly a trip back to traditional methods of transport here; but don’t worry the taxis are still running; the hire cars are available for rent; the sun will still shine, the sea is still clear but most importantly of all the warmth, generosity and friendliness of the Paxiots continues to abound and yes for us this means we continue to ‘live the dream’.

Tracey Spencer Tootill

It’s not surprising that Kefalonia was recently included in a Yahoo survey listing ’10 Amazing Undiscovered Islands’.

Of course, we discovered the island many years ago and our clients – many of whom return year after year – enjoy its many-faceted beauty; from the sophistication of Fiscardo in the north where summer means “people-watching” as the yachts arrive, down through Sami and the delightful little harbour village of Agia Efimia (with views across the sea to Ithaca) to the wonderful sandy beaches of the south including Spartia, Trapezaki, Lourdas and Katelios.

It’s a relaxing walk from Trapezaki to Lourdas (or vice versa) including Kanali Beach which, because it can only be reached by foot, remains almost deserted even during the busy high season.

I took these photographs in the middle of March on one of my first walks of the season when, unusually, you could see the beach and snow on the mountain (Mount Aenos) at the same time. What a glorious spring walk! The beach and local flora will still be there in May although the snow will most probably have disappeared!

Carole Fortune
Kefalonia Island Manager

]]> http://blog.gicthevillacollection.com/2012/03/kefalonia-spring-walk.html/feed 0 http://blog.gicthevillacollection.com/2012/03/traditional-greece-meets-the-world.html http://blog.gicthevillacollection.com/2012/03/traditional-greece-meets-the-world.html#comments Mon, 19 Mar 2012 16:23:43 +0000 GIC The Villa Collection http://blog.gicthevillacollection.com/?p=103 Continue reading →]]> For the last 50 years the small Ionian island of Lefkas has been promoting the message of peace, friendship and brotherhood among nations through music and dance.

For one music-filled week in August the island’s activities are centred on the tiny capital of the island where the LEFKAS INTERNATIONAL FOLKLORE FESTIVAL takes place.

This year the festival will happen between the 19^th and the 26^th of August. It is a significant year as the festival is celebrating its’ 50^th anniversary. Started in 1962, the celebration has drawn dancers and musicians from all over the world. Typically, over 800 people will participate with dancers coming from as far afield as Japan and Korea, although the bulk of the participants come from other parts of Europe.

The idea behind the festival is that sharing national traditions and folk forms brings people closer together and will promote greater understanding and international harmony. During the festival it is hoped that the dancers will reinforce, through their performances, the message of friendship, communication and cooperation.

The festival always starts with a parade through the main boulevard of Lefkas Town on the first Sunday night. The participants wear their national costumes and there is a short performance from each dance group before the crowds that line the streets. As the week goes on there are longer demonstrations of all the national dances and the event culminates in a final celebration on the last Sunday evening.

The parades and final event are generally filmed by Greek national TV and for a while, the eyes of the country are fixed on this small island …. For holiday- makers this is a unique opportunity to experience both local and international culture and traditions, while supporting the spirit of international peace and co-operation.

Janine Cording
GIC The Villa Collection

If previous visitors to Paxos are unaware of an annual music festival on the island they may very surprised to learn that the event takes place in the sleepy  village of Loggos. Yet every year since 1986 the sounds of the world’s famous composers can be heard drifting sweetly across the east of this small island, popular with visitors for its laid-back atmosphere.

In recent years the Paxos Music Festival has taken place in the Old Schoolhouse in Loggos, set right along the waterfront and easily distinguished by its pleasing pastel-painted facade. Every September the village buzzes with locals, visitors from the nearby mainland and international tourists, all eager to enjoy the sounds of classical music set in a remarkably picturesque setting.

The Paxos Music Festival was started by the late John Gough, an Englishman who fell in love with Paxos and became a long-term resident of the island. Early festivals took place in Gough’s own garden and as the popularity of the event grew a more suitable venue was needed. Using the Old Schoolhouse allowed the festival to remain the intimate event that had already begun to attract a devoted following. John Gough died in 2006 but the Paxos Music Festival continues to draw an international audience, keen to enjoy the performances by some of Europe’s finest young musicians. The 2012 festival is due to take place between the 3rd and 17th of September.

Loggos is considered by many to be the prettiest settlement on Paxos. With barely 40 homes and less than 200 inhabitants it is hardly known as a place to come for action or to enjoy the nightlife, and that’s just how those who live in Loggos prefer it to stay. There are a handful of tavernas, a bakery and a few shops, while the beach is a few minutes’ walk from the centre of the village. On most days the most exciting activity to observe is the sight of the various fishing boats entering and leaving the little harbour.

Many visitors to come to the Paxos Music Festival choose to stay in the larger village of Gaios and then travel to Loggos for the performances. Everything on is close by on Paxos, an island only 7 miles long and 3 miles wide. A free shuttle bus has been provided in previous years to allow visitors to get to Loggos for the concerts.

People fall in love with Paxos for many reasons and any time of the year will reveal a distinct side to the island’s charm. For those with a taste for classical music played in a beautiful setting, the Paxos Music Festival is an excellent reason to visit this charming Ionian island.

Visit our site to read more about our available Paxos villas.

The Owl and the Pussycat
Went to sea
In a beautiful pea-green boat,
They took some honey,
And plenty of money,
Wrapped up in a five pound note.

We are all familiar with this piece of nonsense but what is the hidden connection with the Ionian Islands?

Corfu Town

The answer lies with the poem’s author Edward Lear who was also a respected artist who spent a lot of time in the Ionian area painting its’ landscapes and seascapes. This is being celebrated in Corfu this summer with an exhibit of his drawings, engravings, watercolours and oil paintings at the island’s Museum of Asian Art. The show is intended to commemorate the two hundredth anniversary of his birth and celebrate this multi-talented Victorian artist, illustrator and author.

Most people associate Edward Lear with his whimsical limericks and ‘nonsense’ poems but it was his travels to the Mediterranean and the artistic products of these travels that helped him to make a living. Visiting this area during the Victorian period was nowhere near as easy as it is now and he often traveled under difficult circumstances to record the landscapes of Greece. His work recording the Greek islands came before the days of photographs and the picture postcard and were some of the first depictions seen of this area.

Arillas Beach, Corfu

His favourite Ionian island was Corfu which he considered to be a ‘paradise’ and to contain huge variety and great beauty. The charm of his paintings and sketches is that they also show us an idyllic and rustic Corfu before the arrival of tourism and the recent development of the island.

For this glimpse of the Corfu of the 18^th Century we can visit the exhibit which runs from 25 May 2012 to 31 August 2012 at the museum which is located in magical Corfu Town.

Janine Cording
GIC - The Villa Collection

Apokreas is the three week long celebration that runs up to the beginning of Lent. In some areas it is thought of as the Greek Halloween, but literally it means ‘without (or goodbye to) meat’. It is thought to have begun with the celebration

of Dionysos, the Greek God of wine and feasting, but has evolved over the centuries as a ritual of festivities and ‘cleaning’ that leads up to the beginning of the 40 days of Lent and, subsequently, the Greek Orthodox Easter.

On many islands and the mainland of Greece, the last Sunday of the Apokreas sees the near climax of this festival when many towns around the country host elaborate carnivals. One of the most famous is in Patras in the Peloponese on the West coast of Greece, which continues throughout the three weeks and is one of the biggest carnivals in Europe. It has a separate ‘Children’s Carnival’ parade with, on average, up to 5,000 children participating in an array of elaborate masks.

In small villages and towns, however, everyone joins in. The pictures illustrate Kefalonia and Crete but all the featured islands in the GIC The Villa Collection programme participate. It’s a fun time for the children of Greece and perhaps the first big celebration since Christmas. Parties are held, costumes are worn and tricks are played. Many islands celebrate

in individual ways, but they all participate in ‘Clean Monday’ when it is the tradition for the family to come together and fly kites. Homemade or shop bought, it doesn’t really matter. I personally remember many (excuse the pun) sticky moments with a tube of glue and some sticks. What matters is that the whole community enjoys what is also viewed as the first day of Spring flying their kites together! Afterwards, there is a feast – usually based on shellfish – in preparation for the beginning of Lent the next day.

For me, this celebration embodies what the Greeks are all about; tradition, celebration, community – and food!

Claire Kalatzis
GIC The Villa Collection

I visited Anti Paxos last June as part of a familiarisation trip to Paxos and Corfu. I thought it was a fantastic island but it is not for everyone. However, if you love walking (pack your walking boots), swimming, do not mind some self catering and want a complete escape then it is perfect. It feels like the land that time forgot. Plus it is very romantic – the houses we feature here feel like real get away from it all places.

Anti Paxos takes a bit of getting to – a ferry from Corfu to into Gaios (the capital of Paxos) and then an onward taxi boat transfer. The trip from Gaios takes around 15 minutes and you dock at the small harbour of Agrapidia passing the pretty beaches of Vrika and Voutoumi on the way. As there are no shops on the island, clients pre-order shopping before they leave the UK (paid for locally upon arrival) and your provisions come with you on the transfer.”There is no car hire on the island and very few cars in general – you are taken to your house by the boat man who keeps an old Range Rover in the harbour for transfers.

All our houses are well equipped with a full cooker, barbecue and freezer to make self catering as easy as possible. Our representative contacts clients the day after arrival to see what other shopping they need or guests may contact her at any time. When I was there in June there had been high winds so no boats had been going over for a few days. This means no shopping deliveries so it is best to always have some supplies in.

There are four tavernas on the island. Two are at Vrika beach and one of these is open from May. The other opens in June. They are both open in the day time only (until about 5pm). This beach is a 15 minutes walk from Bacchus House.

The other two tavernas are at Voutoumi beach. There is one on the beach and the other, called Bella Vista, is above the beach at the top of a number of steps. These two open from around 15th June to early September. The one on the beach is open in the day time only but Bella Vista usually stays open in the evening.

Violetta house is a ten minutes walk to Voutoumi beach and only a few minutes walk to Bella Vista taverna. Phoenica House is a ten minute walk to Bella Vista and 15 to the beach. If you are staying in one of these houses in May, early June or from mid September onwards it would take you around 40 minutes to walk to the taverna on Vrika beach. All the tavernas offer take away food so you could pick something up from them on the way back from the beach.

Anti Paxos is a popular day trip destination for clients staying in Paxos and the water taxis

Antipaxos

from Gaios stop at Vrika and Voutoumi. As a result guests staying in Anti Paxos can pay to use these boats to visit Gaios. However, in our experience most clients prefer to stay put and enjoy the peace and quiet of this tiny island.

Tracey Howard,
Sunvil Holidays